Cortona
Cortona is no longer a secret but it has maintained all of its charm. Popularized with American tourists by the lovely Frances Mayes, author of Under the Tuscan Sun, it is a city of beauty at every turn. Art galleries, museums, and breathtaking views of the Tuscan countryside. The culinary experiences to be had in Cortona are quite frankly a religious experience. Below you’ll find a handful of my favorite restaurants, where to shop, dine, and stay. I hope you love Cortona as much as I do.
Some of my favorite restaurants in all of Tuscany are in this small walled city. It should be noted that as a woman that has cried because a desert was so good I tend to use the word “favorite” liberally. But in this case, truly, I never tire of visiting Cortona for a long weekend of gastronomic adventures.
I fel lin love with Cortona years ago and it’s a love affair that has only deepened with time. Some of my most memorable evenings in my own solo travels have been in Cortona. It is a place made for slow travelers, slow food, and lovers of beauty and art.
Cortona is a quintessential hilltop borgo. The drive up to this precious town of outstanding beauty is exactly what you would expect when you think of Tuscany. My friend and tour guide Valeria Gorina and I joke often as we drive the serpentine roads “hmmm looks like Tuscany.” It’s postcard perfect. The roads are lined with cypress trees and from July to September you’ll pass fields and fields of sunflowers in the lower hamlets. It is truly like stepping inside of a Van Gogh. It is quite simply breathtaking.
It’s high position offers soaring views of Valdichiana Aretina and if you look closely on a clear day you’ll catch glimpses of gorgeous Lake Trasimeno which is a wonderful day trip if you’re in the area for an extended stay. Isola Maggiore is a very special place reachable by ferry with stunning hikes amongst ancient olive trees to the Church of San Michele Arcangelo. The church was built in the 12th century and boasts incredible frescos. For a small fee the guides in the church offer a beautiful tour experience.
Getting to Cortona
Cortona is located in the province of Arezzo a 1.5 hour drive from Florence and one hour from Siena. Tuscany is always better by car. But Cortona is easily reachable by train. If you travel by train you will take the regional train from Florence S. Maria Novella to Camucia-Cortona with Trenitalia (for train etiquette and best practices click here) and then either hop the 10 minute bus to the centre of Cortona (Piazza Garibaldi) or arrange for a taxi pick up.
There has in recent years been a serious taxi shortage in the area so do plan ahead if you need a taxi. Your hotel concierge can arrange in advance a taxi service. I’ve hosted retreats in the area for years and I arrange my taxis weeks in advance for guest pick up during peak summer.
If you have come in your own vehicle and you are carrying luggage you don’t wish to drag up the steep cobblestone streets to the center many hotels can make arrangements with the local police to allow for a one hour window for you to drive into the center and drop your baggage. If you arrive before a certain time in the morning the ZTL is not active yet and you may drop your luggage at your hotel. Please do speak with your hotel concierge as local rules can change quickly.
Be warned the parking areas are at the bottom, resting in the foothills and the walk is quite steep. If you park at Santo Spirito there is an escalator but I would be remiss not to warn you it has many years not been functioning. I recommend you check with your hotel concierge to avoid any surprises.
Cultural Explorations: What to Do
Eremo Francescano “Le Celle”
10 Minutes by car from Cortona is 13th century Franciscan convent. This beautiful convent housed Saint Francis for a period during his lifetime. Nestled in the hillside amongst holly and oak the property is rich in beauty and history. While the monastery does not contain a collection of ancient works the landscape is spectacular and very much worth a visit. It’s a really peaceful and beautiful place. Wander the wild gardens amongst the olive trees with the sounds of rushing water nearby. And if you’re there at the right time maybe you’ll get to taste their fabulous olive oil.
Address: Case Sparse, 73, 52044 Torreone, Cortona AR, Italy
Website: lecelledicortona.it
Basilica di Santa Margherita
The basilica was built in the 11th century and dedicated to Basilio. It was badly damaged in 1258 under siege by Arezzo. It was rebuilt by Margherita di Cortona in 1288 designed by Giovanni Pisano. The vivid frescoes are more modern but lovely. Fragments of the orignal fresco from the church, attributed to Pietro Lorenzetti, are now conserved in the Diocesan Museum across the street.
Address: Via S. Margherita, 1, 52044 Cortona AR, Italy
Website: diocesi.arezzo.it
The Diocesan Museum
Located on the former site of the local Church of Gesù this museum boasts the works of Fra Angelico, Pietro Lorenzetti, Bartolomeo della Gatta, Luca Signorelli and Sassetta. The oldest item in the museum is a marble Roman sarcophagus (2nd century AD), depicting depicts the battle of Dionysus. One of the most spectacular rooms is dedicated to Signorelli, an homage to his love of his home town. The paintings are attributed to the last years of his life and 10 bear his signature. The rest are believed to have come from his workshop. There is a fantastic guide available for the museum in the shop or use the interactive computers in the museum to learn more.
Address: Piazza del Duomo, 1, 52044 Cortona AR, Italy
Website: diocesi.arezzo.it
MAEC Museum
If you are fascinated by all things ancient take a journey to the MAEC museum and explore a stunning collection of Etruscan and Roman artifacts including La Tabula Cortonensis, an archaeological bronze tablet inscribed with Etruscan text. The museum also holds an esteemed collection of Egyptian pieces, a historical library, and the works of Gino Severini with the most recent archaeological discoveries that illustrate the history of Cortona. The MAEC is a must BEFORE your visit to the Archaeological Park
Address: Piazza Luca Signorelli, 9, 52044 Cortona AR, Italy
Website: cortonamaec.org
Etruscan and Roman Archaeology Sites
After you’ve visited the MAEC Museum it’s time to walk in the steps of the Etruschi and the Romans. Cortona is surrounded by a complex of 11 archaeology sites from the Etruscan and Roman period. Your journey into the ancient past of Cortona begins inside of the city walls at the “Porta Bifora” gate from Via Ghibellina . Then simply follow along the trail to the archaeology park on foot or by bike. Take special note of “Tanella Angori” and “Tanella di Pitagora” on your visit. There is an excellent audio guide available on the MAEC website to enrich your visit. Purchase tickets online and do visit the MAEC museum before setting out for the archaeology park. Explanations of the features of the complex are explained in great detail in the museum.
Isola Maggiore & Lake Trasimeno
About 30 minutes by car from Cortona is Lake Trasimeno where you can take a lovely boat ride to Isola Maggiore. The lake itself is not swimmable but boasts stunning landscapes and shimmering green waters. The lake is surrounded by olive groves and before you board your ferry to Isola Maggiore take a passeggiata through the lovely village of Passignano Sul Trasimeno, with its 14th century watchtower and charming streets its not to be missed. If you’re keen to soak up some sun you can rent kayaks and canoes and paddle the lake. Isola Maggiore is a beautiful small island renowned for its lace making. There is a lovely little lace museum on the island. This special place holds important religious relics as San Francesco d’Assisi retreated in solitude on the island in the 13th century. In the church the for a few euro you can receive an excellent tour of the frescoes in English, French, German, or Italian.
Address: Piazza Luca Signorelli, 9, 52044 Cortona AR, Italy
Website: cortonamaec.org
Culinary Adventures: Where to Eat
Il Cacio Brillo da Bucci
This is my favorite bar in Cortona. I highly recommend the Pecorino al Forno for a late afternoon snack. This favorite is situated in Piazza Luca Signorelli with several outdoor tables and cozy tables in the back if you’re there on a rainy day. The bar has an excellent wine selection and some of the best tagliere plates. You’ll enjoy delicious platters of tuscan meats which frankly, anyone who knows anything knows, are the best. They also make a perfect negroni or aperol spritz. It’s my favorite place for an aperitivo and my favorite haunting for late night wine on a summer night.
Address: Piazza Luca Signorelli 52044 Cortona AR, Italy
Ad Braceria
For me, a visit to Cortona is not complete without a dinner at Ad Braceria. The restaurant is stunning, tucked away downstairs in stone and brick caves and has its very own Etruscan well. The use of this space dates back to 600 BCE. When you enter you are greeted by the giant open fire grill where chef Tito is at work preparing Florentine steaks, local Tuscan sausages, lamb shanks, and other delights. Ad Braceria is Tuscan meat at its finest. If you’ve been eager to try a Florentine steak this is your place. My favorite is the gran mix di carne braceria with a side of fagioli toscana and cooked bitter greens cicoria. Save room for dessert. They make the most spectacular desserts. Order the sfoglia calda con crema chantilly e amarene. You will not be disappointed. Their wine selection is top and you cannot go wrong. Tito and Analisa the owners of Ad Braceria are simply fantastic and have created an atmosphere and experience that is unparalleled.
Address: Via Nazionale, 10, 52044 Cortona AR, Italy
Phone: +39 0575 638185
Ristorante La Loggetta
Overlooking Piazza della Repubblica this is a personal favorite. It is pure elegance. The service is impeccable and the food is exquisite. On a summer night dining on the terrace and watching the lively piazza is pure joy. Marco and Laura have been welcoming guests since 1972. The cuisine is creative takes on Tuscan classics with expert use of seasonal local ingredients. Of course Chef Marco offers the famous chianina steak which finds its roots in Arezzo. Laura is a delight and will ensure you have the perfect wine pairing for your experience. If you aren’t able to book a table on the terrace the interior is absolutely beautiful. Wooden beams, terracotta floors, dimly lit and loaded with beauty and charm. Open for both dinner and lunch reservations are highly recommended and can be booked online.
Address: Piazza Pescheria, 3, 52044 Cortona AR, Italy
Website: laloggetta.com/
Il Falconiere
Chef Silvia Baracchi has held a Michelin star since 2002. Every dish is prepared with local, organic, top quality ingredients. There are multiple dining experiences at Il Falconiere from the ancient Lemon House dining experience to the pool terrace and lounge bar. The dishes are creative takes on Tuscan classics and are nothing but exceptional. Il Falconiere is somehow completely in tune with the rhythms of nature, grounded, and yet otherworldly. It is a full sensory experience from the positively breathtaking surroundings and to scent and sound. Every detail is attended to with the utmost care. If you want a dining experience you will never forget you do not want to miss a languid lunch or sumptuous dinner at Il Falconiere.
Address: Località S. Martino Bocena, 370, 52044 Cortona AR, Italy
Website: ilfalconiere.it
There are many more delightful dining experiences in Cortona but I can’t tell you all of my secrets. Wander the ancient streets and see what you find.
Where to Stay
Casa Dreosti
Jeroen is a dear friend and I cannot speak highly enough about this quaint 4-room bed and breakfast. It is my home away from home when I visit Cortona. I host an annual yoga retreat near Cortona and my guests often stay with Jeroen the night before the retreat begins. Casa Dreosti is located in the heart of Cortona and an easy and short walk to the main piazza. The rooms are exceptionally clean and have something very rare in Italy large showers and bathrooms. It’s honestly heaven. If you travel Italy frequently and you are a woman you have nearly died trying to shave your legs in tiny bathroom stalls with your foot hiked up on a sink. Not here. Luxurious large showers await you. Jeroen, the owner of Casa Dreosti, is a renowned Chef who has worked for many years in leading restaurants in Cape Town, South Africa, London and Italy. In the morning you’ll be treated to a warm cornetto, a bowl of fresh fruit, and a perfect cappuccino made with Illy coffee. In summer there are adorable tables set outside on the quaint tiny cobblestone street for your morning coffee experience. Jeroen is a delight and will tell you about all his favorite places. He has two adorable dogs Judy and Lucy that if you’re not careful will definitely steal your cornetto but are an absolute delight. His Italian grandmother is responsible for his love of Italian culture and cuisine. In 2018 he followed his dream and bought a well-located house in Cortona, renovating it with great attention to detail to make it a comfortable and inviting stay. To remember his grandmother, he wanted to call it Casa Dreosti. Tell him Selena sent you and book directly for the best rate.
Address: Vicolo Boni, 20, 52044 Cortona AR, Italy
Website: https://www.casadreosti.com/about-us.html
Relais Il Falconiere
This 17th century villa has been in the Baracchi family for generations. Completely renovated this 5 star wine resort is unparalleled. Owners Silvia and Benedetto will personally welcome you and ensure your stay is nothing short of spectacular. Silvia is a Michelin star chef and the same care and attention that is given to her cuisine is found in every detail of the Relais. Two swimming pools, a luxury spa, the main manor and farmhouse are situated among the Baracchi vineyards and surrounded by stunning landscapes, lavender, and wisteria. An onsite Michelin star dining experience awaits. To book contact Selena at ciao@theitalianista.com for special perks and the perfect stay.
Address: Località S. Martino Bocena, 370, 52044 Cortona AR, Italy
Website: https://www.ilfalconiere.it/en/
To Book: Book with the Italianista directly to receive exclusive perks and the best pricing. Please email ciao@theitalianista.com with your request. Selena will be in touch right away to book your perfect stay.
Villa di Piazzano
Open from April through October the Villa di Piazzano has been welcoming guests for 500 years. The villa offers slow travel at its finest. Linger by the sun soaked pool, ride a bike through the Tuscan countryside or savor a meal at their onsite beautiful restaurant. The villa offers breathtaking views of Cortona and is situated in the countryside. Lush with greenery, gardens, and wildlife Villa di Piazzano is simply divine. Oh and if you are like me and LOVE a pastry there is a glass room housing pastry chefs and all of their sweet delights. Cakes, cornetto, and other delicacies to entice the senses. To book contact Selena at ciao@theitalianista.com for special perks and the perfect stay.
Address: Loc. Piazzano, 7, 06069 Tuoro sul Trasimeno PG, Italy
Website: https://slh.com/hotels/villa-di-piazzano
To Book: Book with the Italianista directly to receive exclusive perks and the best pricing. Please email ciao@theitalianista.com with your requests. Selena will be in touch right away to book your perfect stay.
Where to Shop
Laura Laureto
Laura’s light, energy, creativity, and presence is positively infectious. Her creations are timeless, elegant, and always made in Italy. Laura is an artisan of the highest order. Her limited edition cashmere, silk, wool, and leather pieces are pure luxury. Her boutique is absolutely breathtaking and is always my first stop when I arrive in Cortona. Her work weaves traditional Tuscan artistry with modern style and techniques. Her tailor-made label Laura Laureto is Italian style at its finest. The quality is impeccable and I can always spot her unique pieces in the wild. The care and love that goes into each piece is tangible. What makes Laura and her shop so special is her absolute dedication to her customers. I have never felt so welcomed and cared for in a shopping experience. When I brought my parents to meet her, her love and attention was one of the most memorable moments of their trip to Cortona. Her shop carries her exclusive line of leather, cashmere, silk, and wool pieces as well as stunning hats from master milliner Patrizia Fabri. My personal hat collection has grown these years from my annual purchase from Laura. This summer she has opened her second stunning location on the island of Capri. If you want a luxury piece that will last a lifetime you would be remiss to not visit this beautiful woman on your visit to Cortona or Capri.
Address: Piazza della Repubblica, 18, 52044 Cortona AR, Italy
Website: https://www.lauralaureto.com/en
Enoteca Molesini
When I lived in the United States all of my wine came from the Enoteca Molesini. Their wine club is the best of the best. Marco is my preferred wine sommelier for my annual Mythic Heart Retreat his knowledge of wine, wine history, and wine culture is unparalleled. The wine shop opened in 2003 and expanded in 2008 but the family has been serving locals since 1937. Offering wine tours in Sicily, on-site wine tasting, local wine dinners, and more it’s not to be missed. If you can’t make it to Italy this year order 6-12 bottles of hand selected wines from the Molesini brothers to bring Tuscany into your home. This shop is honestly arguably one of the best wine shops in the world. If you love wine you cannot miss a visit to Enoteca Molesini. Marco and Paolo are simply fantastic. Their passion and love of wine shines through every offering.
Address: Piazza della Repubblica 22/23
Website: https://www.molesini-market.com/dovesiamo-eng.php
Bottega Baracchi
Bottega Baracchi is a treasure chest of Tuscan artisans and Italian brands. Silvia Baracchi, proprietor of Relais Il Falconiere is the creator of this spectacular space. It’s a way for you to bring a piece of Il Falconiere into your home. Tuscan linens, gorgeous pottery, olive oil, and other delights fill this cozy shop. Bring the elegance and style of Cortona and the Relais into your kitchen with a stop at the Bottega Baracchi.
Address: Via Nazionale, 78, 52044 Cortona AR, Italy
Website: bottegabaracchishop.com
Gorgeous artisanal boutiques abound in Cortona. Simply wander the cobblestone streets and you’ll find local jewelers, painters, potters, and cashmere at every turn. It’s an absolute dream.
A Bit of History
When I returned from Matera for the first time completely taken with that place and its stones I told Antonello, my piano teacher that the stones there were saturated with emotion. I told him that I couldn’t stop running my hands over them and imagining the many lives they had witnessed.
He told me that the sassi “the stones” give testimony. They bear witness. They hold our history in their iron, ores, and minerals. I love a place with stones.
Cortona is a city of stones. A city of art. And a city of imagination.
Once part of Umbria it was conquered by the Etruscans, ruled by the Romans, and of course like much of Tuscany had its stint under Medici rule. The history is a bit clouded in mystery. The origins of this city are steeped in myth and legend. Rumor has it Noah himself wandered into the valley after the Great Flood drawn to its lush and fertile soil and that his son settled there he was taken by its great beauty.
There are excellent books and tours in the local museums if you are keen to explore the local lore and history. When you know what you’re looking at, what you’re standing on, your experience is so much richer. It’s an act of what anthropologists call emplacement. It’s to locate your body, your “self” in the broader folds of history, in a particular landscape, and to be part of, rather than simply a detached observer. I would also argue that our curiosity and desire to really understand a place rather than to simply consume it is always appreciated by local people.
